Noël calls his boutique “a specialty wine shop of first Bordeaux wines ready to be enjoyed” and an “accomplishment of his dream.” Only three years ago, this small wine cellar was just one of thousands in Paris, until Noël, known for his knowledge of wine and business acumen, was called in for an audit of the company in 2005. That same day, he accepted the position as the company`s executive manager. On August 27, 2008, Noël, still an employee at that time, offered to buy the shop. Through his brilliant strategy of making a few simple but necessary changes, Noël quickly transformed the little space into a gold mine, tripling sales and attracting customers from all over the world.

"I changed the selection of wines that was too elitist without good value. I arranged the shop window so that people could look inside, giving them an indirect invitation to step in. “I hired highly motivated wine enthusiasts with advanced wine training as my employees, and I changed the opening hours, devoting my love and passion to this business, “ he explains. Maison des Millesimes does not advertise and Noël wants to keep it a word-of-mouth secret.

Today, Maison des Millesimes is one of the most successful wine shops in France. With revenues as high as 725,000 Euros (USD$1.1million) in 2008, the wine shop keeps itself well above water during the financial crisis. Clients include famous Parisians, politicians, actors, singers, French customers who travel cross country to purchase their wines, and loyal customers from around the world who can, of course, take their selections back safely and tax free to their home countries. The shop`s extensive selection gives customers the option to choose from 400 different wines of which 90% are Bordeaux with prices ranging from 8 Euros (USD$12) to 2,000 Euros (USD$2,900) per bottle.

These wines are classified in four categories: 1.The monthly selection, which reflects good table wines that stand out through their quality price relationship, ranging from 8 Euros (USD$ 12) to 49 Euros (USD$71) per bottle. 2. The big Bordeaux wines ready to be enjoyed, including the perfectly balanced vintages, which range in price from 50 Euros (USD$ 72) to 330 Euros (USD$480) per bottle. 3. The old vintages, wines from 1938 until today, usually purchased as gifts. 4. The superstars, the biggest wines of Bordeaux including the first growths (1er grands crus classés) such as Mouton Rothschild, Cheval Blanc, and Chateau Margaux. “There is a bottle for everyone and for every occasion,” says Noël.

Although the world-wide consumption of wine decreased somewhat in 2008 to reach 245 million hectoliters, France is still the largest consumer with almost 32 million hector liters consumed, resulting in 13% of world wine consumption. Federico Castellucci, General Director of The International Organization of Vine and Wine (IOVW) explains that the wine drop in consumption is due primarily to the economic crisis.

Benjamin Stainemesse, head of wine sales at Carrefour, says, “There is a crisis but wine is one of those items that can be considered ‘anti-crisis’”. Parisian Head Sommelier at Fouquet`s restaurant, Emmanuel Delmas agrees that despite the financial crisis, the French still love their wine. “I have the impression that [people] are not hesitant to try better wines right now. On average people drink less but better quality wines,” he says.

The elevated sales numbers at Maison des Millesimes during the height of a deep financial crisis are clear evidence that the French are still lavishly devoted to wine. Noël`s clients spend an average 70 Euros (USD$100) on a bottle of wine.

According to Sommelier Delmas, his clients` budget is about 100 Euros (USD$146) for a bottle of wine, except business lunches and dinners, which can have a budget as high as 700 Euros (US$1,000) for a bottle of wine.

Sommelier India – The Wine Magazine, reports 85% of French households bought at least one bottle in 2008 and the average household bought 43 liters last year, keeping in mind that France has a population of 65 million and is a large country by European standards.

The wine production in France is a 9.4 billion Euros industry, according to the National Institute of Statistics and Economic Studies. The Milan-based Italian Wines Union and state-run agricultural institute ISMEA report that France`s production of wine will increase by 12% from last year, resulting in a production of 48.1 million hectoliters of wine this year alone, “Making France the world`s leading wine producer again after losing its customary number-one spot to Italy.”

Parisians are as devoted to their Bordeaux wine as New Yorkers are to the Yankees. Experts say the majority of Parisians purchase Bordeaux wines, followed by Burgundy and Rhone Valley wines. The latest addition to the collection at Maison des Millesimes is, Noël says, “A selection of 40 stars outside of Bordeaux, including Burgundy wines such as Faiveley and Trapet, as well as excellent champagnes and wines from the Rhone valley, expanding the assortment even more while attracting a new line of customers.”

How can be such as small wine shop so successful throughout the country? Comparing Maison des Millesimes to the French 125-year-old wine chain Nicolas, Sommelier Delmas explains, “The Maison des Millesimes is a niche shop, offering a coherent selection of Bordeaux wines, vintages from the best châteaux, ranging from young to very old wines. There is value in each bottle, attracting an experienced wine clientele. The French national shop chain Nicolas is unfortunately based on quantity rather than quality wines. Their sales staff lacks adequate wine education to consult its customers.”

Noël `s fascination with wine was introduced by his grandfather, who enjoyed a daily glass of Bordeaux. “I grew up on a farm in Normandy, drinking wine as early as when I was 14 years old. I fell in love with it and began to pair different wines with foods to develop a diversified palate of taste,” he explains.

Among his collection of more important wines, I found the wine bible, Robert Parker`s Wine Buyer`s Guide Bordeaux, on the bookshelf in his shop. Noël considers himself a self-educated wine enthusiast who began reading about wine at an early age when the Bordeaux wines were in high bloom in the 1980`s. “I started getting wine books from the local library to educate myself about the production and tastes of different wines when I was 13. I had no money to buy books at that time.”

He explains how he began his own wine collection, “I went shrimp fishing, which I sold at the fisher’s market, and my first earnings I invested in wine.” So far, it has proved to be a solid and smart investment as his business is thriving in a downturned economy. I take my last sip of a crisp Meursault at his wine shop, while Noël is wrapping up a 1,400 Euros (USD$2,000) sale.

Maison des Millesimes is located at 137 Boulevard Saint Germain, Paris. It is open from 10 am to 10 pm seven days a week. Tel. +33 1 40 46 80 01.

As a freelance writer, Karolina Stefanski has written for several publications, including The Suffolk Journal and German magazines Viel Spass and Freizeit Aktuell. She has also written for several online publications, such as www.polishnews.com and www.helium.com. She is co-authoring a book about Bermudian silver, furniture and architecture with Michael Connors, while acquiring her Masters degree at the Sorbonne University in Paris.

photo by Claude Guillaumin

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